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Liz Pulliam Weston

The Basics

Get real: Downsize your money goals

It's good to have goals, but if the end zone is unreachable (or a recession wasn't in your game plan), it might be time to move the goal posts.

By Liz Pulliam Weston
MSN Money

You've probably heard that "a man's reach should exceed his grasp, or what's a heaven for?" But one definition of hell may be goals that are forever out of reach.

If you keep trying to fix your money and failing, the problem may be that you're aiming too high. Overly ambitious goals can be discouraging if you're forever falling short.

Most of us have more demands on our money than we have money, and so we have to juggle to make sure our financial bases are covered. That makes it tough to achieve truly lofty goals, such as early retirement or a 100% debt-free life.

Add to that the new realities of investing and the economy, where you can't count on steady returns or raises to speed you to your goals, and your frustrations are multiplied.

Consider moving the goal posts closer to your current reality. You're more likely to stay motivated if victory is in sight, and your initial wins may inspire you to keep reaching.

Dealing with debt

Original goal: Be 100% debt-free.

New goal: Pay off all toxic debt.

Here's why: Not all loans are created equal. While credit cards and payday loans are toxic debts that erode your financial security, low-rate mortgages and student loans are generally considered good debt because they help you get ahead. So it's OK not to rush to pay off those good loans, but you'll want to attack your credit cards and other high-rate debts. For more, read "6 steps to dumping toxic debt."

How you pay off your toxic debt is less important than that you pay it off, but consider tackling one or two small debts first to give you the psychological boost you need to keep going. (Read "A debt payoff plan that works.")

Building a safety cushion

Original goal: Have a three- to six-month emergency fund.

New goal: Start with $500.

Here's why: A fat emergency fund helps you cope with financial setbacks and allows you to sleep better at night. The usual advice is that you need to save the equivalent of three to six months' worth of expenses. Unfortunately, building that big a fund can take years, and it usually needs to take a back seat to saving for retirement and paying off toxic debt.

Video: Embracing a budget

The good news is that you can get significant benefits from a much smaller kitty. Research has shown that having just $500 in the bank can reduce anxiety, sleeplessness and bounced-check fees, as I wrote in "Want to sleep better? Save $500." Once you've got that saved, your next goal can be saving one month's worth of your "must have" expenses -- expenses that you couldn't easily delay or trim, such as mortgage or rent, basic groceries, utilities, insurance and child care. For more on how to identify your must-haves and create a budget that works, read "How much should you spend on . . ."

Saving for college

Original goal: Pay for your kid's college education.

New goal: Pay for one-third to one-half of a public school education.

Here's why: College costs continue to rise faster than inflation. If you wanted to pay the full cost of a newborn's education at a private university, you would need to set aside more than $600 a month, starting the day he or she was born, according to a college cost calculator at Savingforcollege.com. (To cover Harvard and other top schools, you would need to save more than $1,200 a month.) Because most families can't set aside that much, a better goal is to save for part of a public school education. To pay half the cost of a public university that costs $18,000 a year today, a parent would need to save $217 a month for a newborn, $263 for a 5-year-old or $349 for a 10-year-old (assuming a 6% annual increase in college costs).

If financial aid doesn't fill the gap, student loans and parental loans can. For more, read "An insider's guide to student loans."

Continued: Buying a home

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Thursday, September 17, 2009 7:37:41 AM

While credit cards and payday loans are toxic debts that erode your financial security, low-rate mortgages and student loans are generally considered good debt because they help you get ahead. So it's OK not to rush to pay off those good loans, but you'll want to attack your credit cards and other high-rate debts.

 

Good debt? Tell that to the people who have lost their homes due to foreclosures and students who can't find a job after graduating.

The best debt to have is NO DEBT.

When you take on debt you ASSUME that you'll always have a job to which to pay back the debt. No one knows the future and should plan accordingly.

Thursday, September 17, 2009 8:09:24 AM

Harvard changed the way they charge the tuition last year. You are expected to pay no more than 10% of your income upto a maximum.

So how relevant is that saving 600$/m and Harvard in the same sentence? Eventually colleges will need to pare down because economy will force them to.

 

I agree that NO DEBT is the best debt there is.

 

Thursday, September 17, 2009 8:18:49 AM
Here is why you never want to get over your head in debt:

http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/2143777/when_debt_collectors_wont_let_go.html?cat=3

Thursday, September 17, 2009 8:21:22 AM
this country is in a world of **** and it has to do with to many nice homes of perfect people with perfect lives in perfect suburbers.someone has to pay for all that perfection.its the average joe.he worked hard making money so his affluent boss could own that home.then his boss decided to move his manufacturing operation to mexico.so now joe has no income and other bosses are trying to sell their product (made in mexico-china-japan)to joe who has no job and no money.well the US might be a great place for technoligy but there are many people left in the dust.so with no manufacturing and a strangled consumer base where can this be going?
Thursday, September 17, 2009 8:34:34 AM

First you start with saving just one penny. The following day, double it. The following day, double that (now 6 pennies). Then, double that...12. And, so forth. You'd really be surprised at the outcome in, say, 5 years, 10 years, 15 years.

 

Oh, and another tip. Always BUY low and SELL high.

Thursday, September 17, 2009 9:31:40 AM

You would have 2.68 million in four weeks, nevermind in 15 years. LOL no wonder you guys make so little money. 

Thursday, September 17, 2009 10:20:25 AM

After you completed your education, purchased your home the debt associated with those isn't any different than credit card or other debt.  In fact you can make the case that you're more exposed with a mortgage/student loans than other debt.  You can also make the case that you are getting something of value, a house or education, which traditionally were financially good things to have.

Thursday, September 17, 2009 10:48:32 AM

You declare "financial victory" by redefining the goal?  George Orwell and doublespeak got nothing on you.

   

Thursday, September 17, 2009 11:22:02 AM
Quick note on early withdrawals for IRA's!  You can take early w/d at age 55 with a 5 yr election under IRS rules. Same apply's to 401K rollovers.  Starting in 2010-rules change for Roth conversions.  My advice;  Rollover all your Retirement funds into a Self Directed IRA or better yet if your self employed a Solo Roth 401K plan.  All future earnings come out Tax Free.  Take control and set up your own Bail out Retirement Plan.
#10
Thursday, September 17, 2009 12:03:25 PM
I was disappointed that the article went straight to the bankruptcy and foreclosure option to get out from under a mortgage that's too big.  If refinancing isn't an option, why not try to sell the home rather than dump it on the bank, which indirectly dumps it on the rest of us who were willing to buy a home within our means.  Granted the housing market is not the best time to sell in right now, but the cost of even a short sale to the bank vs. having to go through the foreclosure process is much less.  People should take responsibility for their debt and not go the bankruptcy route.
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