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Arby's restaurant © Tim Boyle/Getty Images

Extra11/11/2009 6:21 PM ET

Arby's slipping down the food chain

Yes, it operates in many economically stressed communities. But the chain hasn't taken the types of steps that other, more-successful fast-food purveyors have.

By Daniel Gross, Slate.com

Some companies came through the recent recession with flying colors. In the fast-food realm, McDonald's (MCD, news, msgs) was a victor. But in a time of pinched consumer spending, business has frequently been a zero-sum game.

In every sector, it seems, if there's a winner, there's got to be a loser. And in the fast-food industry, it sure looks like Arby's has been one of the losers of this recession.

Arby's was started in Ohio in the 1960s. The name is, of course, a play on roast beef, and on the names of the founding Raffel brothers. (The conceit of this ad in the early 1980s -- that Arby's stands for "America's roast beef, yes sir!" -- never really caught on.) In the 1990s, the company was acquired by Triarc, the investment vehicle of takeover artist Nelson Peltz.

And in 2005, Triarc acquired the largest Arby's franchisee. Today, there are more than 3,700 restaurants, with ownership split between the company (1,165) and franchisees (2,574). Arby's is heavily concentrated in the Midwest. In 2007, its three largest states by number of restaurants were Ohio (291), Michigan (196) and Indiana (181).

Like the Midwest, Arby's seemed to fall into recession before the rest of the country did. In 2007, when the economy was still expanding, sales were essentially flat, as the then-parent company's 10-K shows. Once the national slowdown took hold, sales began to fall sharply.

Most retailers and restaurants measure progress by growth in same-store sales -- how much product a store that's been open more than a year is moving today compared with the year before. For the past seven quarters, same-store sales have slumped at Arby's. In 2008, they were down 1.6% in the first quarter, 3.2% in the second quarter, 5% in the third quarter and 8.5% in the fourth quarter. Things have gotten worse this year, with same-store sales falling 8.7% and 6.9% in the first and second quarters, respectively.

Last week, the company reported third-quarter sales. In a period in which the economy was expanding, Arby's turned in its worst performance in recent memory. Same-store sales were off 9% from the year before, and operating margins at the outlets owned by the company fell sharply.

To a degree, the poor performance at Arby's has been masked by Triarc's smart 2008 move to engineer a merger with Wendy's, which has a better brand image and has put up better results. At Wendy's/Arby's Group (WEN, news, msgs), which is twice the size of Arby's, same-store sales at franchisee-owned restaurants actually rose in the third quarter.

What gives? At some chains, a reduction in same-store sales can be chalked up to discounting. If the prices of your offerings are falling or people are spending less -- if they're just getting the french dip and forgoing the potato bites loaded with bacon (though, really, if you're going down this road, you might as well go whole hog) -- then stable traffic would still lead to sales reductions. And Arby's is clearly doing some discounting. On Saturdays and Sundays, you can get five regular roast beef sandwiches for $5.

Video: Denny's volunteers for burger wars

But Arby's hasn't done much to break away from the crowd. Clearly, it has been laboring in a difficult environment. Its operations are concentrated in economically depressed areas. The chain wasn't exactly thriving before the recession. It can't compete with the big boys (or perhaps even with Big Boy) when it comes to brand awareness, presence or advertising dollars. And now it's the junior partner in Wendy's/Arby's. But the chain doesn't seem to have taken the types of actions that other, more-successful chains have.

Not an easy assignment

While it does offer turkey sandwiches on something approximating wheat bread, Arby's doesn't seem to have made much of a nod to concerns about healthful eating and nutrition, à la the McDonald's salads. I can't recall a memorable recent Arby's ad campaign. The chain lacks the killer nonmeat app -- the french fries at McDonald's, Burger King's milkshakes -- that bolsters margins and ropes in noncarnivores.

Perhaps most significantly, the meat of the business isn't particularly good. On Friday, I stopped into an Arby's for the first time this millennium. It was clean, and I noticed an array of products beyond the bare-bones menu I recall from my Midwestern youth. I may be a food snob, but I'm a nondiscriminating connoisseur of street food and greasy fare who still makes the occasional run for the border at Taco Bell. But even I had difficulty completing the reporting for this assignment. Forget about salads and vegetables.

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As I scoured the menu -- the gyro, the french dip, the patty melt -- I had difficulty identifying anything that had gone through less processing than uranium. A few bites of a roast beef sandwich slathered with goopy cheddar sauce and I was done. On the food chain, the thinly sliced beef is about as far from Boar's Head deli meat as Boar's Head oven-roasted ham is from the vaunted jamón Iberico.

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Thursday, November 12, 2009 8:08:32 AM

Arby's used to be one of our favorites but now we have 2 little ones (18 mo & 3 yrs) & honestly they don't have a viable kids menu.  We did primarily eat from the 5 from $5.99 menu though.  The new sandwiches intrigued me & looked good but I couldn't see paying the same for one meal that we could get 2.  I did step up and try the Reuben once & was disappointed - it was OK but not worth the cost.

Thursday, November 12, 2009 3:38:48 PM

The biggest issue I've had with Arby's is that one store in a town will be running one promotion while another down the street in the same town will be running another.  And then to run different promotions at different times of the day?  I'm sorry, I'm just not going to work around their schedule.

Thursday, November 12, 2009 3:41:44 PM

I always remember Arby's being expensive, and it still is.  $6 for a "Market Fresh" sandwich?  For a fraction of that cost, I can make a much better and much healthier (they featured them in "Eat This Not That" books and I was surprised at how unhealthy they are, even without bacon and mayo!) sandwich at home in the same amount of time it takes to wait in line.

I used to like the cookies, but they don't have them anymore!

Basically, it's unhealthy and over priced, all the apps are greasy and not all that great.  There are better cheaper options for greasy food, and Subway has cookies, so I maybe hit Arby's once or twice a year for "old time's sake" but that's about it.

Thursday, November 12, 2009 3:42:01 PM
It is hard to imagibe that someone writing for Slate can't recall the "I'm thinking Arby's" campaign that's been running for a while now.  It may not be as memorable as "I'm lovin' it" (which is pretty weak, if you ask me), but it is out there and at least seems somewhat clever at times.  And our 4 1/2 year old loves Arby's; they usually have good toys in the kids' meal, and he's always happy with chicken nuggets and fries and a big ol' juice bag.
Thursday, November 12, 2009 3:42:27 PM
A little pricey, but I get a turkey and swiss on wheat, with spicy mustard and lettuce and tomatoes.  Really good, and fairly healthy.  Better than a burger any day.
Thursday, November 12, 2009 3:42:43 PM
Say No to Liquid meat.  Where's the beef!    They should switch to REAL sliced roast beef.   Then I'd go.  I know lot's of people that might try it then.   But right now.  With other real options out there in the beef form.  I'm driving by and pulling into the McDonald's, BK's or Wendy's.
Thursday, November 12, 2009 3:42:44 PM
Don't you think you'd be better of cooking for your kids than giving them J... food?
Thursday, November 12, 2009 3:44:42 PM
Just went there the other day. (by myself) to expensive for the entire family. And all I want is the Roast Beef & Cheddar w/ a side of Potato cakes.  I love that meal. Please do something to keep ARBY's around. The Pacific Northwest. Smile
Thursday, November 12, 2009 3:44:54 PM

You could have shortened your analysis to 4 words ... "The food is lousy."

Thursday, November 12, 2009 3:45:05 PM
I love the fact that they serve Pepsi products and I like the roast beef - when you actually get enough on the bun to make it worth a bite. But the cost is too much for my family of five...it is a true "only on pay day" meal out.
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